ruthless compassion (aroraborealis) wrote,
ruthless compassion

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Watching surfers

Yesterday, the surf was higher than it's been since we arrived. My folks were in class, and I spent the afternoon watching surfers on Playa Marinero (the name of which always gets La Bamba stuck in my head). There were some fairly good (or they looked good to me, as an absolute know-nothing) surfers who managed to get up even though the waves were basically closing out straight across the beach (not angling in where they could get a long ride across the break).

My favorite part, though, wasn't seeing them get up, fun as that was, but when they were paddling out to wait for another big wave. They would ride up, up, up the face of an incoming wave, but out far enough that it wasn't breaking, and with the sun coming through the water, there was a moment when they were profiled perfectly in the jade green water, like flies in amber. If I had the first idea how to capture that moment on film, I'd've spent the whole afternoon trying. Fortunately, I'm not so dedicated to photographic evidence.

Today, I'll hang out at the snorkeling beach, where, if luck, my would-be-beau won't find me.

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